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TRIP REPORT: For the love of Nasi Lemak, Laksa and Hawker Markets in Singapore – Growing Old in Style

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For the love of Nasi Lemak and Hawker Market foods in Singapore
Growing Old In Style

Growing old in Style - Singapore and Kuala Lumpar Header Image - Economy Class and Beyond

If there’s one thing to do in Singapore’s tourism scene, it’s to explore the food scene and enjoy the local colours and flavours—time to head into the world of Hawker Markets and Food Centres.

In this mammoth trip report (note, headings subject to change)

Food tourism is a thing I enjoy when I can travel, and when a single traveller, it’s a little more challenging, least of all the judgmental looks you get when solo dining when travelling in some parts of the world.

Yes, double diners or more, I see you judging.  It doesn’t bother me much, but being able to blend in and eat is always a preferred option.

I visited more than a few Hawker Marts this trip, keeping it to old favourites that I know and love.

Hawker Markets offer choice. That’s great – but sometimes when your brain is not with it, too many choices. You take that as you find it and start hunting out the tasty snacks and food.

To help you’ve given you some guidance on how to get to the centres.

As usual, cash is king where possible in hawker centres, although bigger centres are becoming much more friendly to credit card payment these days. Cash works in all cases

Old Airport Road Food Centre

The Old Airport Road Food Centre is about a 1.1km walk from the IBIS Budget Ruby hotel, so not far… if you can stand the heat. I can, and given it was a little grey, it was time to work up a sweat and walk.

This walk is very much through residential Singapore, compared to some of the more glamorous sides. Just be human in the area around you, like you do when you travel.

For those taking the MRT, its nearby Dakota on the Circle Line – so it’s very accessible. Of course, you can take a Grab or the local buses to get you there, too.

Here’s just some of the stores (as documenting it all… well… why would I ruin a surprise for you?).

a man standing in a store

a food stand inside a building
I did not go “Do do do do do, do.. Well, maybe twice. 

people sitting at a table in a food store

a woman standing in front of a food stand

a display case with food on it

From here, I was more than a little basic. Yes. I went for a Nasi Lemak.

a sign with a picture of food on it
And Set C.

a display case with food in it

So, what did I get for S$4? This lovely dish.

a plate of food with a fried egg and chicken wings

Freshly put together and cooked, this was a great plate, with some lovely crispy fried chicken, nicely done rice, a happy egg and of course, anchovies, peanuts, cucumbers and sambal sauce to cap it off.

And now I remember what I forgot to pick up before I left Singapore… Sambal sauce.

To go with it, I went for a Prawn Cracker. Except this isn’t your instant fried cracker special. This cracker had… an entire prawn in it.

a plastic bag with food on it

a fried shrimp on a plate

This was cooked recently, so lovely and crispy as well as… well. The whole thing was edible. ‘Nuff said.

Albert Street Food Centre, Near Bugis

The Albert Street Food Centre is a convenient spot, given it is near the Bugis Market, as well as a Bugis station, and well on the way to Sim Lim Square. It’s within spitting distance of the Intercontinental/Frasers House as well as the Mercure, Ibis Budget and several other properties in the area around Bugis.

The easiest station to get to the hawker market is, of course, Bugis, although at a stretch you can go to Rochor if you feel adventurous and like the walk in the baking heat.

a restaurant with tables and chairs

people standing in front of a food stand

a group of people sitting at tables in a food court

a man standing in a kitchen with a fan and a man standing in a room

a sign with food on it

And considering the prices, I might have double-dipped for breakfast. Heck, it’s going to beat an airline lounge’s food without trying. 

First up …. yes, another Nasi Lemak. The Pea flour coloured rice place has had a tart-up.

people at a food court

people standing in a food store

This time, with green rice. Very good for $S3.50.

a plate of food on a table

I might have had one Laksa there too… Around S$4.

a bowl of soup with meat and vegetables

Well, maybe two on a different day. Around S$5, as I had some fish bites to dip in the Laksa.

a bowl of soup and food in a plastic container

And who can say no to Fishballs? Especially with a little bit of spice? Yours for S$4.

a sign for a fish and meat balla kitchen with a counter and buckets of fooda bowl of noodles and meatballs on a traya bowl of soup with meatballs and vegetables

a group of people walking on a sidewalk

Maxwell Food Centre, Near Chinatown

Time for an oldie but goodie – The Maxwell Food Centre. This food centre is located near Chinatown, and you can access it either by walking from Chinatown station on the Downtown Line/North East line, or at its own dedicated station on the Thomson East Coast Line (which is handy if you’re coming from Orchard Road).

a group of people walking in a market

This is important – sometimes, the food centres are closed for a number of days for a spring clean. It’s worth checking before you visit, in case the one you want to go to is shut.

a man standing in front of a food stand a food stand with food items on it

For my first night, I could not be bothered with the wait for Chicken Rice. I therefore splurged S$7.50 on a Pork Cutlet and Fried Rice. Yes, I am pushing out the fiscal boat here.

I hadn’t seen this store before, so it was interesting to see a new hawker set up shop here.

And look – a proper plate for once!

a plate of rice and meat on a tray a plate of rice and meat a plate of rice and meat

It was a favourable set – that’s for sure. A little expensive, but it was cooked fresh to order, which was great to see.

Of course, one does not go to Maxwell without visiting that shop. I, of course, refer to Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice.

a group of people sitting at tables in a food court
And there’s always a queue for the shop. 

Thankfully, the queue moves fast, as this shop turns people around fast.

a menu board with pictures of food on it
Menu

a poster on a wall with a sign and baskets of food
It’s that Anthony Bourdain

a sign on a window

a sign board with many signs on it

a poster on a wall
And Mr Gordon Ramsey.

a man standing in front of a food stand

Well, its well loved. Thankfully, Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice accepts electronic payments, so my $S6 meal came out at £4.41. Once I tapped, it was time to collect my portion of food.

a food stand with signs and posters
Auntie grabbing trays 

a trays of food on a table
Not my order 

a blue tray with food in it a tray of food on a tray

a plate of food with rice and meat
My order.

Tian Tain has gone down the line of their own cardboard trays now, going in on the branding. Whilst it’s nice to see they’re interested in their product, it does make it feel a lot more… corporate than in previous times, when it was placed on a paper plate.

It’s still one of the dishes I look forward to when travelling, with soft chicken and flavourful rice.

Next

Singapore – best enjoyed in the rain?

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